HOW TO PAINT KITCHEN CABINETS

Step 1: Remove Doors, Drawers & Hardware

This is the step most people rush through, and it makes or breaks your results. Remove every door, drawer front, and piece of hardware — hinges, pulls, knobs, catches. Paint builds up on hardware edges and causes sticky doors later.

Label everything. Use painter's tape on the back of each door with a number, and put a matching number inside the cabinet box. Take a photo of the layout before you start. When it's time to rehang 20+ doors, you'll thank yourself.

Place all screws and hardware in labeled zip-lock bags. If you're upgrading hardware, now is the time to measure hole spacing. New knobs are a $30-50 upgrade that dramatically changes the look.

Step 2: Clean & Degrease Every Surface

Kitchen cabinets accumulate years of cooking grease, especially above the stove. Regular cleaning isn't enough — you need a dedicated degreaser. TSP (trisodium phosphate) or Krud Kutter works best. Mix according to label directions, scrub with a sponge, and wipe clean with water.

Pay extra attention to the area around the stove and above the microwave — grease builds up invisibly and causes primer failure. If paint peels within months, insufficient degreasing is almost always the cause. Fixing peeling paint means starting over, so get this right.

Step 3: Sand & Prime

Sand all surfaces with 120-grit sandpaper to scuff the existing finish. You're not removing the old paint or stain — just creating a rough surface for primer to grip. Use sanding sponges for raised-panel or shaker-style profiles where flat sandpaper can't reach.

Wipe everything with a tack cloth (not a damp rag — it reintroduces moisture). Then apply a shellac-based bonding primer like Zinsser BIN or KILZ Original. These primers stick to virtually anything — stained wood, thermofoil, laminate, even previously varnished surfaces.

Apply one even coat. Don't worry about covering perfectly — primer is about adhesion, not color. Let it dry for the time specified on the can (usually 45 min to 1 hour), then lightly sand with 220-grit for an ultra-smooth base.

Step 4: Apply Paint (2 Coats)

This is where your paint sheen choice and application method matter most. Whether you spray or use brush-and-roller, the technique is the same:

1. Paint the back of doors first — set them flat on painter's pyramids. Any mistakes happen on the less-visible side.
2. Work the recessed areas first with an angled sash brush, then immediately roll the flat panels with a 4" foam roller.
3. Maintain a wet edge — always work from wet paint into dry. This prevents lap marks, which are the most visible flaw on cabinet doors.
4. Thin coats over thick coats. Two thin coats with proper dry time will always beat one thick coat. Thick coats sag, drip, and take days longer to cure.

Wait a full 24 hours between coats. Yes, the can says "recoat in 4-6 hours" — but for cabinets that need to survive daily use, longer dry time means a harder final finish.

Step 5: Dry, Cure & Reassemble

Dry time and cure time are not the same thing. Your cabinets will feel dry to the touch in hours, but the paint won't reach full hardness for 2-3 weeks. During this cure period:

• Don't stack doors against each other — they'll stick together
• Don't scrub or use harsh cleaners for the first month
• Close doors gently — slamming can dent uncured paint
• Keep the kitchen well-ventilated to speed curing

Reinstall hardware carefully. Thread screws by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Adjust hinges so doors hang evenly — this is where those photos from Step 1 pay off.